Many years ago, I worked briefly with a rather infamous direct sales company whose primary line of business was cutlery. I don’t really work well as a cold-calling knife salesman but the experience wasn’t entirely useless. Among other useful tactics learned as a salesman (and I did move some product, though I had problems pulling down the “big fish” clients in the wealthier suburbs like my peers because I did not come from a wealthy suburb), I learned pretty much all there is to know about consumer cutlery products. One of the most useful things you can learn about kitchen knives, with an application to many things in life, is: “always use the right tool for the job.”
Nowadays I’m somewhat obsessed with cooking - it’s a hobby that I don’t practice as often as I’d like, but I’m pretty serious about it when I have the time - but more specifically obsessed with cutlery.
Kitchen gadgets overall do not impress me much, in part because my parents taught me indirectly that today’s trendy kitchen gadgets are tomorrow’s garage sale fodder. However, I insist upon having all of the basic kitchen items available in a proper kitchen; sadly, the average city dweller tends to know neither which items to have or when to use them. More accurately, most people have many kitchen tools, but all of them are cheap.
Plastic, flimsy things made in the cheap production country du jour, designed terribly, stored improperly, used poorly or abusively, and, tragically, in most cases, rarely used at all for the preceding reasons. It is amazing what people will spend money on, and then won’t spend money on regarding the same purpose. Sure, run on down to Broadway Panhandler for all the wine glasses you need, but skip the saucepans entirely! $45 for a proper medium sized saucepan is just too much money! (Note that if you use your wine glasses more than you use your saucepans, there are directly many things wrong with your lifestyle and it is a sign that you are a personal disaster) And what about a paring knife? Do you have one that you bought in Pathmark ten years ago? Was it $5? Is it dull? Is it dirty? Shame, shame, shame. Seriously, throw that disgusting fucking thing away and get yourself a serious paring knife. I’m literally afraid for my fingers when using it, but… if you’re not afraid of slicing your fingers off with the knife that you’re using, it turns out that there’s a greater chance that you’ll slice your fingers off while struggling with an everyday potato.
Several years ago, upon first moving to Manhattan and not really having any cash in the bank, I invested in a small set of professional kitchen knives. I got the best of the brand that I’d selected. (Ironically, they’re made by a direct competitor of the direct sales company above who trained us specifically to tell customers why their own brand was better than the more-familiar competitors. The result was that I now know which knife companies sell the best products, and my former employer isn’t one of them.) Since I was operating on a budget, I bought the most versatile knives at the highest quality point. A chef’s knife (only 8″, but I didn’t need a bigger one), a sandwich knife, and a paring knife. (The paring knife was a mistake. More on that some other time) I took them home, stored them carefully, and instructed my roommate that, if he wished to use them, he must operate, clean, and store them only in a particular way. I never have washed them in a dishwasher, I have washed and dried them by hand immediately after each use, I honed them almost every time I used them, and I sharpened them once a year at a professional knife-sharpening outfit. They have lasted more than three years like this. Paring knife aside, the two bigger knives are still incredibly useful and formidable kitchen tools that will see me efficiently through most kitchen jobs.
Well, except for carving.
I am a carnivore, and it is often required of me to slice through some sort of cooked meat product, whether it is a London Broil, a roast, or a plain old rotisserie chicken picked up on the way home. (Turns out that roasting a normal-size chicken is an expensive and time-consuming pain in the ass, and, hey, this smaller one that doesn’t create three pounds of leftovers costs only $8 and comes pre-cooked! SOLD!) I am very particular about carving up such meats, because I like them sliced very thin. And so I’d try to use my chef’s knife for the purpose, because it’s the one heavy-duty knife that I have that fits the task the best - except it really does a shitty job of carving because it is slightly unwieldy for such a task. Or maybe it’s difficult to use because I also lacked a carving fork, and holding that shit down with a tiny table fork right next to the carving edge of the meat with one hand, and using a long heavy chunk of sharp metal with the other hand to do the cutting, is an unwieldy and ridiculous experience. But, hey, I’m on a budget, and not everything can be easy when you are trying to save money. I had problems, but I dealt with it. It could be worse. At least I’ve never tried carving meat with a common steak knife. (Another type of knife for which you should have a well-made set around when needed, and not the set that you bought in college as a supermarket special.)
So now here’s where I tell you how I solved my carving problem:
Recently, a friend of mine switched apartments and left a lot of old appliances and household items behind. I capitalized on this, and pretty much grabbed anything that would fit into a large sack plus available hands and arms. On a whim, I grabbed a full knife block, knowing that I had no need for half of what was in there and that the quality of the rest of it was probably terrible. I figured I might luck out with some semi-decent knives that would fill in some utility holes in my kitchen set. I’m smart like that, because I indeed picked up at least three things I could use: kitchen scissors, a bread slicer, and a carving knife. The carving knife wasn’t all that useful at first - it was dreadfully dull, and even nicked a bit on several spots of the blade. I tried using it on a chicken last week, and it was miserable. I’d feared that, being so light and dull, the thing was made of cheap metal and was useless, despite signs to the contrary (full tang construction, a solid grip). I didn’t expect much after that, but I still planned to take the carving knife down the block to Bowery Kitchen East to see if it could be freshened up for good use.
I dropped by last Saturday afternoon. I presented my cutlery (I took everything in for sharpening at once) with full confidence that the man behind the counter knew his stuff and would give me the best service possible. It’s that kind of place. I presented him with the sad carving knife. He looked at it closely. He seemed to handle it as if it were an object that deserved appreciation. He tested the flexibility of the blade and was impressed by its range. His opinion was that it was a very good knife, certainly more useful for carving than my other non-carving knives, and that it would probably work very well after some sharpening. Trusting his opinion fully, I gave it to him for sharpening service. The other matter at hand, besides tending to the other knives (which he found each impressive and impressively maintained), was the carving fork - I am, after all, serious about having the right tools for the job. His recommendation was for me to purchase a straight fork instead of a curved fork. I initially could not decide, but he insisted that a straight fork would be more useful, even if marginally so. I took a chance and bought the straight fork. (and let me tell you - that motherfucker is SHARP! Those points on the end? I can barely touch them without feeling their prick. I think, if I was ever confronted by an armed burglar, I’d go for the fork before any of the knives.)
I took my newly sharpened knives and new carving fork home, and planned to test them out soon enough. Last night, I got my chance with a freshly-broiled top sirloin cut. These things usually KILL me because they’re so hard to cut, especially at the thinness which I enjoy them. I was actually a bit reluctant to even attempt using the carving knife on it, because I remember how much resistance it gave when it was dull, and I was thinking that I might be in for a struggle.
I positioned the carving fork on the top side of the beef and easily pierced through for a firm hold. I felt very comfortable in my stance because, for a change, I was using equally-distanced tools for both holding down the meat and slicing it. Now, to test the carving knife… I grimaced and tensed my arm muscles…
Uhh, what? It sliced with one stroke? The blade went right through like it was hot butter. I was in shock. Let’s try this again… *slice* right through. And again. And again. And again. Paper-thin cuts of beef as if I were using a deli slicer. Slice, slice, slice, slice, slice… and done.
My only regret was that I was finished so quickly with the carving. It was almost disappointing to eat afterward. Well, almost.